Planes are fast, but trains have better stories
In 2022, I embarked on a new adventure, traveling from Amsterdam to Dubai using only public transportation. This journey was sparked by an invitation to speak at Expo 2020. With the Blue Bandit now a museum piece, I sought an alternative way to reach the Emirates, and taking the train felt like the most logical choice.
At first, I wasn’t even sure if such a trip was possible. But the idea captivated me: What sights would I encounter? Who would I meet along the way? What would it feel like to spend days crossing borders by train?
Planning the journey was not easy, I relied on various websites and blogs to map out a route that would take me through Europe, Turkey, and into the Persian Gulf, where a ferry would finally bring me to Dubai.
The route
Before the Covid pandemic, it was possible to travel by train all the way from Amsterdam to Bandar Abbas. However, due to train cancellations during the pandemic, I had to switch to buses at certain points to keep the journey moving.
As with any true adventure, the route shifted along the way. These unexpected changes didn’t just fill in the gaps, they added to the richness and unpredictability of the experience.
The journey
From Amsterdam to Dubai by train
I. Europe
I began my journey on the 3rd of January, leaving Amsterdam aboard two German ICE trains that brought me to Vienna, on time, which is quite unusual for a long-distance German train.
From there, I boarded the Dacia Express, the night train to Bucharest, waking up to the stunning landscapes of Transylvania.
Naturally, my train arrived late in Bucharest, because what’s an adventure without a little chaos? I had to sprint to the bus terminal to catch a 12-hour coach ride to Istanbul, giving me plenty of time to reflect on my life choices.
Reaching Istanbul
Just 48 hours after leaving Amsterdam, I arrived at the outskirts of Istanbul. I jumped on the metro to the Bosphorus, arriving just in time to catch this stunning sunrise.
I sat down for a much-needed chai and some pide, and with two days to explore the city, I soaked in the sights at my own pace.
II. Turkey
From Istanbul Söğütlüçeşme Station, a quick 4-hour high-speed train took me to Turkey’s capital, Ankara.
The iconic Doğu Ekspresi turned out to be the most stunning ride of the entire journey. This route, known for its breathtaking views, travels from Ankara to Kars, cutting through Turkey’s mountainous and snow-covered landscapes. Offering a surreal experience with views of remote villages and snow covered valleys. The untouched, rural scenery and tranquility almost made me forget I hadn’t moved in 17 hours.
And all of this for just €3, less than the price of a kebab. Easily the best deal of the trip.
III. Denied entry to Iran
Traveling through Iran was crucial for completing this journey without flying. Just as I was preparing to leave, Iran unexpectedly announced a 15-day border closure. Determined to stick to my original plan, I adjusted my schedule, spending extra time in Istanbul and aiming to reach the border on day 16, hopeful it would reopen.
But when I arrived, the border remained closed indefinitely, with no clear answers in sight. I had to quickly switch to plan B and reimagine the rest of my journey.
IV. Plan B: Iraq
From Gurbulak, I took a minibus to the border with the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. The crossing was surprisingly smooth. I entered Erbil and was greeted with smiles, tea, and genuine hospitality. The Kurdistan Region of Iraq isn’t on many train bucket lists, but it should be.
I spent a few unforgettable days in Erbil before catching a flight, the only one of the trip, to Amman, Jordan. There was simply no overland way forward. Sometimes, even the most committed low-carbon traveler needs a Plan B.
V. Through Jordan and Saudi Arabia
In Amman, I secured a bus ticket to Saudi Arabia. Easy enough in theory. In practice, I was dropped off in the middle of the night, 10 km from the nearest city. A friendly stranger, the kind that seems to appear just when you need them, gave me a ride.
From there, I boarded the Saudi high-speed rail to Riyadh. The train sliced through the desert like a spaceship. Vast nothingness rolled past the windows, interrupted only by the occasional camel. I continued by bus, over the longest straight highway in the world.
Arrived in Dubai
After 17 days of traveling, I finally reached my destination. Unexpectedly, this journey turned out to be one of the most memorable and fascinating trips I’ve ever undertaken.
I loved seeing the scenery, people and culture gradually change. Each part of the journey brought new experiences and new faces, turning what could have been just a trip into an adventure rich with stories. It was full of discovery, connection and unpredictability, exactly how I like my travels.
I spent a few weeks in Dubai before heading home as planned: by ferry to Iran, and then, more or less, retracing my route by train back to Amsterdam.
Why did I do it this way?
I was invited by the Netherlands Ministry of Foreign Affairs to speak at Expo 2020 in Dubai, to share my story of driving an electric car from the Netherlands to Australia.
But flying there just to talk about sustainable travel didn’t make sense. So I asked myself: “Can I get to Dubai in a sustainable way?”
Driving again wasn’t an option, my car was in a museum. Public transport became the plan. I pieced together trains, buses, and borders using Seat 61, Rome2Rio and Google Maps. It took 17 days.
Was that practical? Not really. But flying isn’t exactly sustainable either.
I wanted to challenge the default. To prove there’s another way.
And along the way, I saw places most people skip. I got stuck, rerouted, and helped by strangers. The journey gave meaning to the message.
In the end, I didn’t just go to give a talk. The journey was the talk.
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The talk (that almost didn’t happen)
Here’s the twist: the talk that sparked this whole journey at EXPO 2020… got cancelled.
I found out while I was in Istanbul, halfway to Dubai.
Seventeen days of travel for nothing? Not quite.
Word of my no-fly journey spread, and that’s when UITP — the global public transport association — reached out. They invited me to be the keynote speaker at their MENA Transport Congress in Dubai.
So I kept going. And when I finally arrived, I shared why “travel by plane changes your day, travel by train changes your life” on a much bigger stage than I ever expected
What started as a cancelled talk turned into something much bigger. And once again, the journey delivered more than the destination.
